Tag Archives: New Zealand Huts

New Zealand Huts: Resources and Bibliography

New Zealand Huts Resources and Bibliography

by Sam Demas

(Note: this is part of the larger work New Zealand Huts: Notes towards a Country Study)

Following is a very brief selection of publications, web sites and organizations to begin delving  into the world of New Zealand huts.   There is a rich literature on huts and tramping in NZ, I recommend starting with two indispensable books:

  • Shelter From the Storm by Shaun Barnett, Rob Brown, and Geoff Spearpoint (Craig Potton Publishing, 2012).
  • Tramping a New Zealand History, by Shaun Barnett and Chris Maclean (Craig Potton Publishing, 2014).

The bibliographies and footnotes in these amazing works will immediately lead you deep into the relevant literature. 

[For those interested in more detail than is provided in the components of my own report, but are not yet ready to read a full book, check out my reviews of Shelter from the Storm.]

–>For a brief introduction, even better, read the downloadable reprint of the Introduction to Shelter From the Storm; this essay by Shaun Barnett is an excellent introduction to NZ huts.

Also by Barnett, Brown and Spearpoint A Bunk for the Night: A Guide to New Zealand’s Best Backcountry Huts, Potton & Burton, 2016(?).

Other insightful works on huts and tramping include works by Mark Pickering, notably:

  • A Trampers Journey, Craig Potton Publishing, 2004.
  • Huts: untold stories from back-country NZ, Canterbury University Press, 2010.
  • The Hills, Heinemann Reid, 1988.

Golden Bay writer Gerard Hindmarsh has written about huts in some of the essays in his Kahurangi Calling, Potton and Burton, 2010, and Kahurangi Stories, Potton and Burton, 2017.

NZ huts are best understood within the context of environmental conservation and the role of humans in this fabulously beautiful, remote landscape.

  • For a quick, informative and stimulating sense of the broader landscape/environmental history of NZ, see: Michael King’s magisterial overview Penguin History of New Zealand, Penguin Books, 2012. While a 500-page book can only skim the surface of a nation’s history, this one does it very well.  For most of us, dipping into chapters selectively is more manageable than reading the entire book.  The first few chapters set the pre-historic and early history, chapter 11 on the seminal Treaty of Waitangi is useful (even more so is the Wikipedia article), and Chapter 26, land under pressure, briefly provides invaluable historical context on environmental history.
  • Wild Heart: the possibility of wilderness in Aotearoa New Zealand, edited by Mick Abbott and Richard Reeve, Otago University Press, 2011. These 17 essays by trampers, conservationists, historians, writers, scientists, and conservationists provide useful perspective on how Kiwi’s are thinking about the nature, roles, uses and protection of wilderness today.  It gives a good sense of the many ways in which wildness is “at the nation’s psychological and physical core”.
  • Environmental historian Geoff Parks’s provocative Theatre Country: essays on landscape and Whenua, Victoria University Press, 2006. The Maori word whenua means both placenta and people, and this series of essays explores how New Zealanders – indigenous and colonial — are, and are not, connected to the land they occupy.  Parks’ thinking about wilderness and landscape seems to be in the spirit of William Cronon, but with a distinctive Kiwi sensibility.   The essays range widely, discussing the historical views of landscape and the picturesque imported from British romanticism, nature tourism, and it frames New Zealand’s approach to landscape as a profoundly and misguidedly dichotomous insistence on dividing the nation into two distinct theatrical scenes, both playing out on a national stage largely outside the critical awareness of the actors: 1. the intensively cultivated 51% of the land, and 2. the highly protected, puristic notion of “wilderness” characterized by DoC’s management regime for the 33%

A few relevant websites:

  • NZ Department of Conservation  With persistent, creative  searching, this extensive website will yield a wealth of information and perspective.
  • Tramper.co.nz  – A great site for locating tracks to walk and learning about the range of tramping and huts in NZ.
  • Remote Huts  A valuable online forum for those interested in the preservation and restoration of remote huts and tracks.  Includes information about Permolat.
  • Backcountry Trust  Information about grants and projects of this remarkable hut and track maintenance program, funded in large part by DoC.
  • Facebook sites for “Shelter from the Storm”, the Backcountry Trust, and the Federated Mountain Clubs, and other groups are great for staying up to date on developments and for networking.
  • NZ Alpine Club  source for climbers and information about a network of alpine huts.
  • Wilderness Magazine , an excellent print and online publication, also has a useful website.
  •  Federated Mountain Clubs  A key outdoors organization  representing 80 clubs,  FMC is at the nexus of outdoors activity and information.  Their brief includes advocacy and information/ publishing.  Their quarterly magazine Backcountry, available in print and online, is an indispensable source of information about huts, tramping and outdoor activities generally.  Their page providing links to other websites is a great place to start exploring beyond what is listed above.  
DoC Intentions books

Seven questions about the future of NZ huts

by Sam Demas

(Note: this is part of the larger work New Zealand Huts: Notes towards a Country Study)

Loyal, engaged and committed to the conservation estate, Kiwis with and through their agency DoC, will doubtless be intentional, and perhaps even creative, in shaping the future of their remarkable national hut system. As contemporary society evolves, what is the future of the world’s largest hut system?  Below are a few of the questions that most interest I look forward to discussing them further with hut folks.

1. Will DoC stay firm in its support of the New Zealanders experience of the New Zealand back country? Will a robust system of backcountry huts be maintained, and not sacrificed to supporting the tourist experience of huts?  Will huts remain affordable and accessible for Kiwis?  These are the concerns Kiwis overwhelmingly expressed when I asked their views about the future of NZ huts. [Interestingly, few other visions or questions were expressed about the future of huts among Kiwis I asked about this, with the exception of Mick Abbott, a fount of ideas and questions.]  My sense is that Kiwi trampers have done a fabulous job of making their concerns known and are contributing creatively to ensuring the hut future they most desire.  And my sense is that DoC is fully on board with this vision as central to the future of the hut system.  Much hard work remains to ensure this vision.

2. What is the future of front country and road-end huts? DoC seems to have come full circle in its thinking about road-end huts and is no longer committed to removing all of them. Meanwhile, DoC has inherited a significant number of baches (e.g on Rangitito Island), some of which are in proximity to urban areas (e.g. Orongorongo).  Ongoing tenure review may result in inheritance of additional structures.  How can the nation benefit from these structures?  Might they become valued infrastructure for providing urban dwellers with safe nature immersion experiences and outdoor/environmental education opportunities?  School and youth groups, church groups, and families are some of the obvious potential user groups for front country “huts” and other structures.  How can they be made secure and protected from vandalism?  Might voluntary hut wardens/environmental educators play a role?  DoC lodges, hostels and cabins, which provide greater amenities, already serve these functions.  So do some huts.  Should this become a more intentional strategy?

3. What is the future of hut siting, design, and architecture? Now that the vast DoC hut system is fully built out and seemingly on track to be well maintained, what will future hut designs look like?  [Most Kiwis I spoke with fervently hope the designs won’t change in future].  While there are not likely to be a great many new huts built in future, Mick Abbott suggests huts can be designed (or re-designed) as catalysts for change and innovation in developing skills and attitudes for living well with nature, for living lightly on the land.  What we learn in huts can be brought home to inform our daily lives.  How to build huts systems that make an area more robust, biodiverse, at scale?  Will the trend towards greater amenities in serviced huts seep into standard and basic huts?  Perhaps a series of design charrettes that stimulate creative thinking about hut design may be part of determining the future roles of huts and what that means for future hut designs?

4. Will some huts return to their origins as conservation infrastructure? Might huts see increasing use as bases for biodiversity programs (conservation huts), including pest control initiatives, reforestation, erosion control, protection and re-introduction of native species, and for “eyes on the land” in nature reserves?

5. What is the future of private involvement in huts and walks? Today NZ has approximately 30 privately operated hut systems (by comparison, the US has about 18 hut systems, all but one of which is privately operated, some for-profit and some non-profit operated by NGOs). It seems highly unlikely that private huts and walks will even begin to approach the scale of DoC huts, but I wonder what roles/niches they might fill?  The older model, e.g. Ultimate Hikes operating a parallel glamping system on Milford and Routeburn Tracks, doesn’t seem to me like a model to expand.  But DoC seems open to trying different models of public/private partnership in hut and track management to see what works.  Two of the best known are the Hump Ridge Track and the Old Ghost Road.  It will be interesting to take stock of the lessons learned from experiments in public/private partnership.

6. What directions will Maori land managers take with huts on conservation lands? As some conservation lands (i.e. some former National Parks such as Te Urewera and Paparoa) are granted a new legal status and positioned for joint management and eventual all-Maori management, how will the tangata wenhua (people of the land) ethos manifestin management of land, water and huts?   Will huts continue as traditional recreational infrastructure for trampers?  Will they be prized primarily for revenue generation, or will they also add a dimension of education and engagement with about Maori ideas and practices about human relationship to the earth?  How will the design and roles of huts change under Maori management, and what might DoC, the nation and the world learn from this?

7. Is New Zealand developing a multi-tier hut system? Andrew Buglass articulated a concern of many trampers that a two-tier system is developing, “One is extremely well resourced, risk averse, overcrowded and out of the price range….of ordinary New Zealanders. The other is basic, remote, and has a high level of community input.”  It seems to me the hut system may actually be evolving into multiple “tiers” to serve an ever more diverse range of audiences.

The growing range of huts (and their accommodations cousins: cabins, camps, baches, and lodges) is apparent when comparing, to name just a handful: the marvelous array of historic huts on the Cobb Valley Track, the huts and tracks of the Abel Tasman Great Walk, the Ghost Trail, the Rangitoto baches, the cabins, camps and lodges and the public/private Hump Ridge Track.

It is critical that the unique, traditional Kiwi backcountry hut experience be privileged and protected as the hut system evolves.  But the system will evolve along with Kiwi society.

Starting in the 1990’s, DoC began to rationalize its sprawling system of huts in ways that resulted in the present categories:

  • Great Walks Huts – catering for Backcountry Comfort Seekers (BCC);
  • Serviced and Serviced-Alpine Huts – catering for BCC or Backcountry Adventurers (BCA);
  • Standard Huts (catering for BCA)
  • Basic Huts (catering for BCA or Remoteness Seekers (RS).

These four hut categories are a subset of the seven “visitor groups” identified in the Recreational Opportunity Spectrum work reported in the 1996 “Visitor Strategy” document.  The three not applied to huts are: Short stop travelers (SST), Day Visitors (DV), and Overnighters (ON).

This sensible subset of categories appears flexible enough to encompass most uses/users of huts per se, and may serve NZ well for years to come.

However, as a thought experiment, lets imagine that DoC might in future decide to review its hut categories as part of an exercise in examining how best to address changing user groups and uses.  In such an exercise, what other uses/user groups might be considered in categorizing (and designing and operating) huts and other accommodation types?  This may involve re-visiting the original seven “visitor groups” and thinking about how huts relate to the other groups and accommodation types.  For example:

  • Recreational users: e.g. BCA and RS huts, which form the core of Kiwi tramping, hunting and fishing. Other recreational user groups, which may well bleed into BCC category, include bicyclists and boaters, kayakers, snorkelers and other marine reserve visitors.
  • Conservation volunteers: Huts used extensively for conservation work in programs designed to foster a connection with nature through hands-on work (of course there are already huts set aside for agency scientific and backcountry work purposes);
  • “Voluntourism”: (a subset of the above) huts designed to provide international tourists with an opportunity to experience NZ nature first-hand through participation in volunteer conservation projects.
  • Urban newcomers to nature: Huts catering to NZ’s increasing urban population, providing introductory nature immersion experiences and teaching outdoor skills to those who haven’t learned them;
  • Environmental/outdoor education: huts designed for use with youth groups and schools;
  • International tourist tracks: catering to foreigners who are willing to pay for a high-end recreational experience with the proceeds allocated to conservation programs and maintenance of backcountry huts, rather into the pockets of concessionaires.
  • Bach vacationers: urban and suburban Kiwis who are not up to “roughing it” in a hut, but happy to stay in pre-existing rustic accommodations inherited by DoC on the conservation estate.

Perhaps this thought experiment is an exercise in comparing apples and oranges, and perhaps it could veer into a dangerous muddling of what should remain distinct categories.  But as the uses and users of huts (and the other accommodations on the conservation estate) continues to expand, inevitably the lines will begin to blur.  The role(s) of the hut system per se will likely need to be reaffirmed and/or clarified over time.

The hut system may in fact become multi-tiered over time, but that should be a part of a deliberate, values-based decision-making process.  It should not be simply a function of mission drift and a reaction to mounting pressures (e.g. constrained budgets, tourism pressures, etc.).  If the traditional Kiwi backcountry hut experience is to be protected and privileged in future, it will be within the context of a growing diversity of hut/backcountry/outdoor experiences and accommodations.

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Paul Kilgour

New Zealand Hut Heroes: Paul Kilgour: story and video

Kilgour Was Here: the story and a video of a hut nut 

by Sam Demas

(Note: this is part of the larger work New Zealand Huts: Notes towards a Country Study)

Talking about huts, Kiwis I met often spoke with awe about Paul Kilgour, the Golden Bay tramper who has “visited more huts than anyone else in New Zealand”.  We ended our Cobb Valley tramp just ahead of Cyclone Gita and drove to Takkaka, where we hoped to meet Paul and others.  Very soon, in talking with Gerard Hindmarsh (whose books are a delightful trove of Golden Bay stories, including some about huts and about Paul) we learned that Paul is his  friend and neighbor. We got through to Paul and invited him for dinner or a drink, he turned the tables, inviting us to his house since Takkaka was essentially closing down for the cyclone and he really didn’t want to go out.  So we brought along beer and pizza, and Paul’s partner Janet provided a garden salad and a super-delicious southern-style apple pie (she is from Tennessee!).   [They met on the Heaphy Track where she was a hut warden, at the end of his “great walk”, but thats another story].  We spent a wonderful evening talking, spent the night in our camper parked in their driveway, and had coffee with them in the morning.  A memorable visit from which I learned a great deal.

Paul Kilgour

Paul Kilgrour and Janet Watchman

However, after dinner that night, when our partners had grow weary of all the hut talk and retired for the night, I took out the video camera and recorded Paul telling his story.  He was on a roll!  What follows is a brief written profile of Paul and a link to the video.  You may want to skip the writing and go right to the video at the end of this post!

With his Gandalf beard, bright eyes and glowing good health, Paul has a beatific presence.  His elfin whimsy, great energy, and thoughtful, loving affect, make it clear he loves people and is genuinely compassionate  He seems the sort of person who can talk with anyone.  He connects with people in part because he is quietly alert, endlessly curious, and seems knows at least a little about a-lot of things.  For example, trained in the air force as an airplane mechanic, he seems to know lots of folks with planes, a handy thing when getting around in the backcountry.  He loves the “old ways” and has great respect for the self-reliant Kahurangi folks who “make do with what you got”.

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Architect Ron Pynenburg: New Zealand Hut Hero

Architect Ron Pynenburg: New Zealand Hut Hero

by Sam Demas

[black and white photos below excerpted are from Pynenburg’s thesis, included here with permission]

Hut design reflects cultural values and recreational preferences, and can become an expression of national identity.  This is certainly true in New Zealand, where Kiwi’s have definite opinions about and resonances with hut architecture.  Most love the older, smaller huts with open hearths. Some hard core trampers are disdainful of the newer “flash” (fancy) huts.  As I explored NZ huts, I couldn’t help wondering:  Who designs these new huts?  What design principles and preferences inform these designs? Where is the hut system headed?   And, as Andrew Buglass suggests, is there a two-tier hut system evolving in which lower-use backcountry huts are losing support in favor of high-use serviced and Great Walks huts?

Ron in Dingleburn, Courtesy Pynenburg

In addition to talking with Brian Dobbie of DoC, I had a chance to meet Ron Pynenburg, the architect of many recent New Zealand huts.  For me, learning a bit about Ron’s  early influences and about his perspectives on hut design, past, present and future — the topic of this profile — cast light on these questions.

European huts (OK, I know one really shouldn’t generalize across so many distinctive nations!) are mostly very “flash”, i.e. more like mountain hotels than primitive shelters.  For a Swiss architect, I’m told, a commission to design a hut is as prestigious as one to design and museum or a church.  The multidisciplinary high-tech project selected to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology , the design and construction of the New Monte Rosa Hut, is a remarkable monument to the place of huts (and Swiss hospitality, design and engineering) in that nation’s identity.

As an American, I was amazed to realize that every one of the 105 huts in the 18 U.S. hut systems has a higher level of amenities than every one of the 962 DoC huts, including those on the Great Walks.  Like the Europeans, but in our own “pioneer” ways, we Americans sure like our comforts!

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Brian Dobbie: New Zealand Hut Hero

Brian Dobbie: New Zealand Hut Hero

by Sam Demas

(Note: this is part of the larger work New Zealand Huts: Notes towards a Country Study)

Few have visited as many NZ huts, and even fewer know as much about the DoC hut system as Brian.  Working in the Recreations and Historic Unit, he is part of the team of DoC staff planning and managing the hut

Brian Dobbie, courtesy Brian Dobbie

system at the national level.  Since 1987 Brian has contributed greatly to shaping the development and operation of the world’s largest hut system.  His perspective encompasses a broad understanding of the genesis and infrastructure of the system as a whole, the attendant policy and budget issues, how huts fit into tourism and Kiwi culture, and a deep knowledge of the nitty-gritty of hut operations.  He seems to have been involved in every major controversy and policy decision related to DoC huts, wrote or helped to write the foundational operating documents and procedures, and helped figure out how best to respond to an endless series of budget cuts — and the occasional significant boost in funding — over the years.  And he loves huts: as of early 2018 he had visited 770 of the roughly 962 huts in the DoC hut system.

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New Zealand Hut Heroes: Rob Brown

Rob Brown: tramper, photographer, activist and diplomat

By Sam Demas

(Note: this is part of the larger work New Zealand Huts: Notes towards a Country Study)

We spent several hours talking with Rob in his Wanaka home (and enjoying the harmonious  background presence of his two lovely daughters), before heading out to stay in one of the many huts (Meg Hut) that he urged us to visit.  Clearly a gifted photographer and committed activist, he pursues his passions — for art, activism, and partnerships in support of the great outdoors — with vigor on a national scale.  These accomplishments — combined with his inherent  enjoyment of advocacy, policy and process — make him a  real player in the world of New Zealand huts and wilderness.

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New Zealand Huts : Building blocks of the national hut system

New Zealand Huts Department of Conservation (DoC) System —

 Part A: Six Building blocks of the national hut system

(Note: this is part of the larger work New Zealand Huts: Notes towards a Country Study)

Introduction

This is the first in a series of posts (Parts A – E) providing an overview of how the NZ Department of Conservation (DoC) operates New Zealand’s collectively owned system of 962 huts.  The series includes:

  • Part A: Six Building Blocks of the DoC Hut System
  • Part B: How Many and What Kinds?  A Tally and Taxonomy
  • Part C: Operational Costs and Revenues
  • Part D: Notes on Ten Selected Operations
  • Part E: Great Walks Huts

Part A looks at what I am calling ‘Six Building Blocks, i.e. six of the key DoC documents that laid the foundations for creating a cohesive national hut system for NZ, the world’s largest. DoC’s policies and operational methods are well documented online.  The intent of this summary is to provide the reader a broad overview and links and pointers to more in-depth information.

First, a quick look at the NZ Department of Conservation as a whole.

Broad Overview of DoC

New Zealand Huts

NZ Department of Conservation Logo

DoC is the NZ government agency which operates the largest hut system in the world.  The agency was established under the Conservation Act 1987, which consolidated parts of several agencies, including the huts, tracks and other infrastructure for outdoor recreation, conservation and scientific work.   Prior to 1987 the organization of NZ land management agencies was based on those in the U.S., i.e. separate agencies for various types of federal lands.  The 1987 Conservation Act moved to consolidate many functions in one agency with a clear conservation mandate driving all land management policies and programs, and in the hope of better coordination among formerly distinct agencies with overlapping missions.  See Historical Perspectives for historical context on the development of DoC.

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Hut Principles: New Zealand Department of Conservation

This is quoted from the  NZ DoC document (n.d.) and linked to a broader piece LINK HERE:

NZ Department of Conservation: HUT PRINCIPLES

SELECTING A SUSTAINABLE CORE NETWORK OF HUTS

 New Zealanders have enjoyed a long history of access to a network of huts located at more than 1000 sites throughout the country’s conservation areas.  The majority of these facilities provide basic overnight shelter although some buildings can accommodate up to 60 people a night at popular destinations.  Between them these facilities are a significant contribution to the character of the backcountry, with many huts seen as important in their own right.  Indeed, local communities through the efforts of tramping and hunting clubs have provided many huts now available to the public.

  • Huts provide basic overnight shelter in conservation areas, complementing tent camping.
  • Huts between them create a range of opportunities for a variety of outdoor recreation activities including tramping, hunting, fishing and climbing.
  • Huts may be used for a weekend away, an escape during the week, or to support a multi-day trip.
  • In order to ensure that the right mix of huts is retained into the future to support a range of recreation opportunities, the following Principles and guidance will be used to make proposals on huts. The proposals arising from the use of these principles will not directly lead to management action, but will form the basis of discussion through the public consultation process. Over time the total number and location of huts may be changed within a location and the opportunities still retained.
  • These Principles apply to most huts including Great Walk huts but do not apply to locked booked accommodation or shelters.

HUT PRINCIPLES

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Hut Economics: what does it cost to operate the NZ DoC Hut System?

New Zealand Huts Department of Conservation, Part D:

Hut Economics: what does it cost to operate the NZ DoC Hut System?

by Sam Demas

(Note: this is part of the larger work New Zealand Huts: Notes towards a Country Study)

Determining hut economics is always the hardest part of studying huts.  Quite often I get little or no useful information from the operators, particularly from private operations.  With a government-operated hut system this has proved a bit easier in the case of New Zealand, though the data I have is an approximation based on some cost modeling that DoC has done over the years.

The bottom line:

  • the estimated annual cost to operate DoC huts is about $12,000,000,
  • DoC takes in about $7,500,000 per year in hut-related revenues, and
  • that leaves about $4,500,000 in net annual expense from the DoC budget.

These figures are only estimates; see caveats and details below.  All amounts are quoted in NZ Dollars.   Note: these estimates only do not account for the following categories of expense:

  • expenses for central services such as the web site and booking system, hut brochures, and Visitor Centers,
  • situations where clubs get a share of the hut revenues,
  • revenue from concessions, which are very difficult to break out specifically for use of huts.

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cross cultural comparisons

New Zealand Great Walks: user perceptions

New Zealand Huts Department of Conservation, Part D:

Great Walks user perceptions

in Great Walks Huts and Serviced Huts

by Sam Demas

(Note: this is part of the larger work New Zealand Huts: Notes towards a Country Study)

In operating the world’s largest hut system, DoC caters for trampers with vastly different experience and skill levels, from different parts of New Zealand society and from all over the world.  DoC is continually trying to balance these disparate needs, abilities, and preferences through an evolving suite of “visitor management” methods.  There appears to be widespread public recognition that DoC is continually walking a very difficult tightrope.

While Kiwis recognize that it is not possible to please everyone, DoC has learned that it can count on experienced local trampers to let them know when their visitor management methods are perceived as undermining traditional tramping.  So DoC is well aware of the perceptions summarized below, and doubtless much more.

See related post New Zealand Great Walks: tourism and policies for broader context for these summary perceptions and for discussion of policies designed to address them.

Sources of user perceptions and notes on methodology

There are currently 33 Great Walks Huts and 95 Serviced Huts in the DoC system.  This combined total of 128 huts constitutes 13.3% of total DoC huts (963). The user perceptions summarized below are from these two hut categories.  While a small percentage of the whole system, these two categories attract the most intensive use and controversy.

This summary of user perceptions is derived from two sources: 1. from discussions that I gathered in three months of interviews and travels in NZ, and 2. from the results of an academic survey reported in the article “Tramper Perspectives on New Zealand’s Great Walks in a time of transition” (in New Zealand Geographer, 2017, p. 1-15, by Joe Fagan and Robin Kearns). [Alas, the link to this article will only get you the full text if you have access through a library with a digital subscription or if you wish to pay.  Otherwise you can get a paper copy at your local library or request it on interlibrary loan.]

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